October 5, 2015

Where I am really picky with Plantain fit

Hello there!
Has autumn kicked in where you live? In Toulouse we are having some rainy days, and the sky is quite gloomy. I don't mind it, I've actually always loved this time of the year: it looks like everyone is getting cosier, the food is getting warmer, and a new working year has just started. Of course, if you are unemployed like me, this last part is untrue and a little sad, but that's another story. Let's focus on the good things, like my birthday that is approaching!
And let's focus on clothes, especially handmade clothes. Today I'm presenting another Tshirt, boring, I know, but right now I'm all about fundamentals.


It's a Plantain tshirt, a free pattern by Deer and Doe. I made it some months ago but never blogged. Then put it away during warmer weather, and now it looks about time to talk about it.


As you can see the fit is not perfect. I went for a size 46 (the biggest one), and added room to the waistline. It's a bit too large at the shoulders and underarms, and tight at the bust.


It has drag lines at the underarm which are visible even with the arms close to the body. The fit on the back is much better, except for too long shoulders. 


The long shoulders also cause too much length in the sleeves. I do like long and cosy sleeves, but in this case they are just a happy result of a shoulder accident. Next time I would like to make them on purpose.


The bust area is compressed. The full bust size is adequate to my measurement, but if I'm making this pattern again I'll have to make an FBA starting from one or two sizes down. I am so pleased to be able to notice these things now, with respect to the time I actually made the garment. When I made this tshirt I was so proud of myself, but I guess I was just concentrating on giving it a nice finishing with mocked double needle topstitching. I have to admit that Chéri was more accurate on the fit judgement: he doesn't know the correct sewing terms, but for sure he noticed that my ladies were not adequately represented, and complained a lot. He keeps on complaining every time he sees me with this tshirt. I guess you have to trust a guy's eye when it comes to bust fit.


The fabric is from Toto tissus in Toulouse, and it is a nice drapey cotton jersey. I think it has some viscose in it, because it is very thin but heavy, and the feel is of a very brushed and smooth fibre. The design is quite nice, too: pink florals on a plain background, with a digital pixelated appearance of the flowers. I now wish I had taken better pictures of it, more detailed and less overexposed. (Someone is in a critical mood this morning).


Well, after all these critics you may think I don't like this tshirt, or I never wear it. Truth is I adore it, because of the fabric, the finishing details and the long sleeves. I tend to wear it as much as I can, so maybe I'll have to make more tshirts, preferably with a better fit. If I'm overly critical with the fit it might be because I'm in overdose of The great British sewing bee. I had never watched it, and only recently caught up on all the episodes. They are much fun and instructive, and definitely made me want to go back to figure sketching, as I used to do several decades ago.

I leave you with the picture of the first leaf found on my balcony. Happy autumn everyone! 

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